Before doing carrying out the experiment, please read “safety and regulations” by “Hong Kong government Health & safety” on www.hkgov.com.hkWave Heights:To calculate the wave height, a metric ruler is needed. The student will have to go into the water, far enough to measure a wave, but close enough for safety reasons. The metric ruler will be placed where it will be touching the beach floor, and as the wave passes, he/she will measure the height of the crest and the height of the trough marking the two measurements on the ruler. The ideal method is to, when the wave passes, mark with your hands the top and bottom of the wave, then subtract the trough from the crest, which will give you the difference in height. This processed data will be used to calculate the wave energy.Beach profile:Place a measuring tape vertically along the beach. Two students of similar height are required for this. One of them should stand at the top end of the tape while the other is at the bottom end (should be where the water and sand meet). Here, the bottom student will use a clinometer. With the clinometer, aim the sight towards the eyes of the upper student and release the trigger. Read and record the angle found. Now move 10 meters to the left and right from the original position, and repeat process.Beach material analysis:A measuring tape is placed vertically from the top of the beach down to the limit where water and sand meet. Starting from the top of the beach (ie. 0 meters), we will pick up a rock/stone/pebble. Using the tape, measure the length of the stone; using the guide to determine the rock scale, deduce a suitable scale for the stone, also giving a description of its appearance (ie. Green; brown; brick red; etc.). Drop the stone, and move 2 meters down the tape, picking up a new stone. Repeat measurements (of length, scale and type). Move 2 meters down again and repeat. Continue until the sea is met. Repeat the entire process 10 meters to the left.Long shore drift:This process will be used to determine the direction of the current. Inflate a plastic balloon. Attach a string to it so it will not be lost somewhere and so that it will always be retrievable. Before measuring, determine the expected direction of the balloon (compass points + bearing). Then place the balloon on the water holding onto the string. Looking at the balloon, determine the actual direction of the current (should be seen by the movement of the balloon). Record the compass point and bearing. Repeat this process somewhere else on the beach. Normally, the location to do this should be somewhere where deposition of rocks is visible.Comparing the two beaches:This was done by a random sampling technique. We took numbers from the back of a fieldwork geography book which represented bearings and the number of steps required to take in that specific direction. Then, with the help of a 4-meter string, which was used as our quadrant, we recorded the amount of litter found inside the square. This was done several times on the beach. After, we repeated the process with different sets of random numbers on another beach, using the same 4-metre string as the previous beach.

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